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Our Journey with Khayat

The first time I saw Ismail Khayat’s work, it felt like a dream made from the soil, sky, and the sorrows of Kurdistan. Faces emerged from cracked earth; birds hovered between flight and capture; colors bled into one another like memories too urgent to fade. Born in 1944 in the border town of Xaneqîn, Khayat carried the mountains and rivers of his homeland into his canvases; he also carried its wounds. Working over fifty years, we saw him rise with the modern Kurdish art, and spoke of himself as only a witness. 

Khayat’s work told universal stories of what’s felt, what’s seen, what’s survived. His art also showed the fluid, flowing lines of a pen that seemed as if to create beauty so easily, and this in itself spoke of hope. It invited you to linger. Exhibited across Europe, the Middle East, and America, his work didn’t lose its grounding in the Kurdish landscape, even as it learned to speak more and more the visual language the world saw.

His Voice in the Archive

We interviewed Khayat in Slêmanî, in his gallery, in the Kashkul office. We toured Xaneqîn, Pîrer and Helebce with him; he spoke about his earliest memories of drawing: “Students were taught English on the figures I drew. I watched movies in Xaneqîn Cinema, and always drew the scenes and the characters on the margins of any book I had at hand. These were my first trainings.” That resourcefulness never left him. Even in times of war, when materials were scarce, he found ways to keep creating.

He talked with us on the themes in his work. The recurring masks, he explained, came from a childhood memory of villagers covering their faces during dust storms: “A mask can hide you from the world, but it can also protect you from it. In our lives, we have needed both.” The birds were, in his words, “my messengers. They carry the news of our people to places I cannot go.”

And perhaps most strikingly, when we asked him about the political edge of his art, he told us: “I do not paint politics. I paint life. But life is political.”

When we were repainting the stones with him in Pîrer, the no man’s land between the PUK and KDP during the civil war, he had so many stories to tell us: “The project started with a Board advocating for peace that consisted of six members from both KDP and PUK. This place was divided, but the part in which I worked belonged to neither party. I brought both sides to pay for this project. The art in this place connected the two parties together. I collected all the bullets around that area, dug a hole, and buried them there. I was not sure the project would have what results. But, it became the subject of family discussions in their homes. Some critique was that I bolded the borders between the parties, but I replied that what I created was a beautiful necklace to nature.”

The Kashkul Archive

At Kashkul, we’ve always worked to keep cultural memories safe. When we began archiving Ismail Khayat’s work, we understood the gravity of the task. It was the preservation of a lifetime’s witness. We catalogued hundreds of items, from large canvases to sketches, each one a fragment of Khayat’s journey.

We wanted his voice documented, too. The interviews became as important as the images, because they carried his humor, his words, and his eyes. We grew as people when creating this archive; it was teaching us approaches, styles we would come back to.

From Sulaimani to Exeter

This year, the digital archive will travel to the University of Exeter. The decision to host his works there is a continuation of Khayat’s lifelong conversation with the world, and all that he taught us about what collaborations can do. Exeter’s commitment to Kurdish and Middle Eastern studies offers a platform where his art can speak to scholars, students, and the public far beyond Kurdistan’s borders. From the Kashkul Visual Arts, the digital exhibition will also bring the journey we took with Khayat to create this archive.

His Enduring Legacy

At Kashkul, we were never just working with Ismail Khayat. We were friends who talked about art over tea, who argued about colors and symbols, who planned projects and exhibitions with equal parts tangles and laughter. His presence in our space, even as he spoke so softly, carried an energy that seemed to fill the whole room.

I last saw him at Kashkul’s Through the Smoke Behind the Curtain exhibition for Hawre Khalid. Ismail arrived in a denim jacket and jeans, casual in his style, but also active in his style. He was always urging us to rally together for something left unfinished, a campaign, as he’d call it—”Let’s run a campaign to reorganize the paintings,” “Let’s rally together to finish the digitization.” 

That day, he wasn’t feeling well. That didn’t matter, he went to art exhibitions, cultural events just the same. 

After that night, we never met again. Shene and I left for the US on December 21, 2019. The very first person to call us in Iowa City was Ismail Khayat. His voice brought warmth to the city’s shocking cold. That would be the last time we spoke.

It’s striking how the little things remain. The way he would lean over a table at Kashkul. The way he looked so closely at an artwork in his gallery. The small sweetener tablets he added to his tea. I would look at him in a room full of people, see him always looking, and know he was soon sketching on paper.

At Kashkul, we archived his colors and lines in the hope of archiving the history he poured into them. And in my mind, his denim jacket, our last phone call, the quiet knowledge that friendship, like art, often outlives us, complete the archive.

Ismail once told me, “Art is the only passport they cannot confiscate.” In the journey his work takes from Slêmanî to Exeter, I am reminded that in sharing his legacy, we honor not only him but the lasting stories in his art.

Pshtiwan Babakr

August 11, 2025 

Slêmanî


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Mosul Maqam

Mosul Maqam is made possible with the generous support of the British Council’s Cultural Protection Fund in partnership with the UK government’s Department for Culture, Media and Sport. We are grateful for their commitment to preserving and promoting Mosul and Iraq’s cultural heritage

The project is run in collaboration with Kashkul, the centre for arts and culture at the American University of Iraq and Sulaimani (AUIS), the University of Mosul and the “Volunteer With Us” organisation in Mosul. The archive will become a vital digital resource for future scholarship in an accessible format linked and co-hosted at home country institutions like the American University of Iraq Sulaimani and the University of Mosul, encouraging international exchange, partnerships and collaborations.  

Maqam

Maqam is the system of melodic modes in the traditional shared musical culture of the MENA region and Central Asia. Iraqi Maqam is one of the oldest and most celebrated forms of Maqam culture, which was inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2008. The people of Mosul (Iraq) share a special connection with Maqam due to the city’s geographic location as a cultural crossroads, as well as their remarkable capacity to preserve and transmit centuries-old social values, customs, and artistic expressions. 

Before the invasion of Iraq in 2003 and the subsequent events that led to the occupation of the city by ISIS, the melodic sounds of Maqam filled the streets ranging from vendors promoting their products, in kitchens, coffeehouses, at weddings, and when visiting the public baths. Unfortunately, these sounds are disappearing today as Maqam is an oral tradition and is only taught through a direct contact between the Maqam master and their students. During years of war and difficulty in meeting each other, and the older generation loss who were more vulnerable to war. 

All that has remained from the Maqam reciter Layth al-Kani Family recording Library after ISIS Confiscation Photo taken by Bryar Bajalan

Music production and musicians in Mosul have been targeted through terrorist attacks since 2003. ISIS killed and imprisoned musicians. Performers began clipping their nails to play the guitar quieter and burying their musical instruments in their gardens to hide them. Khalid al-Rawwi, one of the talented musicians who participated in our workshops and will be featured in our upcoming album alongside young 13 Mosuli artists and Amir El-Saffar, had to conceal his oud in a rice bag to avoid kidnapping and potential death just for carrying a musical instrument. ISIS turned the Spring Theatre in Mosul into a prison and place of execution, while the Maqam house was left in ruins. 

Street in Mosul’s old city. Photograph by Lana Kamaran

Mosul Maqam is a research project set up to safeguard vibrant Iraqi maqam music and protect it for future generations. The project is designed to preserve a record of the musical and lyrical heritage of forms of Maqam in Mosul, Iraq. Preserving Maqam means preserving stories of daily life: ramblings in the old city, slipping secret letters to future wives, and picnics at monasteries in spring. Maqam is significant beyond social heritage and material significance (i.e., the physical creation of the musical tradition). It has spiritual importance, having been used for years in calls to prayer and church choirs. Further, it can be understood as a spiritual framework which can ground the process of healing after years of war. For example, the most loved Maqam singer in Mosul, Malla Othman al-Mosuli, requested in his last will to be buried with a specific Maqam entitled, ‘Ya Elahi qad Raja Minka al-Huda’ asking for the mercy of God. Maqam helps people to remember those who were lost in the war and commemorate the memory of those yet to be found in mass graves. It brings back the soapy clean scent of the orange blossom on summer nights and propels the Tigris River into the tents of refugee camps and the cold living rooms of the diaspora. This is to say, Maqam is uniquely precious to the local population, as well as to Mosul’s former locals in the diaspora; its value is acknowledged by Iraqi society beyond Mosul. It is also important in many other Middle East contexts, where musical traditions trace their origins to Mosul Maqams, including the famous songs of Sayed Darwish, one of Egypt’s greatest musicians. Even the limited recordings of Mosuli Maqam music on YouTube bear witness to the importance of this heritage as a symbol of hope for those who have entered Mosul’s walls. Ultimately, Maqam explains itself best, for ‘Maqam’ in Arabic means Sanctuary. 

Project Milestones and Upcoming Archive Content:  

Sound Archive: Mosul Maqam archive comprises both living experts of Maqam and the various data surrounding it. It compiles and archive the traditional Maqams of the city on digital and social media platforms easily accessible to people in Mosul and internationally. The archive includes digitized collections of Maqam recordings that has rare vinyls, reel to reel, tape cassettes, and documents on Mosuli Maqam that are digitised for the first time and made available with both Arabic and English description.  

Ammar Taha Showing Family Metadata at Al-Rabi’s Recording Shop – one of the oldest recording stores in the city that was closed down by ISIS in 2014 and just re-opened after the war), Mosul. Photo taken by Bryar Bajalan

Oral History Interviews: To date, we have gathered 31 hours of interviews with Maqam reciters, collectors of Maqam in the city, and musicians who were trained by the late Maqam reciters recounting their memories of specific Maqam recordings from their collections and their cultural life with Maqam.  

Ammar Taha – Oral History Interview. Photo taken by Mahmood Jumaa

Educational Workshops:  

Oral History Training: The project provided research training in oral history and professional community research and media techniques, including co-created knowledge and sensitive archival practices. This training equipped a Mosuli fieldworkers and local volunteers as they curated their heritage for the Maqam festival, supporting their long-term goals of becoming cultural ambassadors and scholars. 

Mosul Maqam Lessons: Eleven lessons on Mosulawi Maqam were held at the Faculty of Fine Arts at the University of Mosul, providing knowledge of Maqam art to 40 participants in Mosul. All classes are now accessible online, and we explored 15 Maqams in detail with Maqam master Ramiz al-Rawi. 

Innovation in Maqam Workshops: A two-week training and musical workshop were conducted for a diverse group of 14 young artists by composer Amir El-Saffar at the Volunteer with Us headquarter in Mosul. These workshops support innovative ways to create new art forms; speak to younger audiences and open up multiple realities, narratives and futures grounded in authentic practices.  

One of many workshops led by the world-famous Iraqi-American composer and Maqam reciter, Amir El-Saffar
Ban Shakeeb, Mosul Scholar and Pianist – Oral History Interview. Photo taken by Tahany Saleh

Album and Festival:  

We recorded the innovative musical pieces created during the workshop in an album set to be released later this year. Additionally, we hosted a festival that attracted over 600 attendees, making it a joyful and impactful experience for everyone involved. The Maqam Festival took place in Mosul Forest on September 27, 2024, featuring Maqam masters Ramiz al-Rawi and Fakhri Fadhil, along with workshop students and Maqam lesson participants who incorporated Maqam into their contemporary works. 

Mosul Maqam team takes Festival guests to the Bytna Foundation community Museum. Photograph by Lana Kamaran
Mosul Maqam Festival in Mosul Ghabat Park

Mosul Forest is home to beloved recreational spaces on the city’s left bank. Once used by ISIS to train fighters and recruit children, it celebrated Mosul’s resilience and Mosulis’ commitment to bringing the city back to life. A special highlight at the festival was the attendance of the renowned Iraqi Maqam reader and Iraq Idol, Mohammed Sajad.  

Comic Book:  Later this year, Kashkul at the American University of Iraq Sulaimani will publish a comic book that was prepared by an all women team who have received training, access to the necessary archives, and support to interview their family members. Both young artists have limited memories of Mosul before the war and are reconnecting with their heritage, city and families through this project. The comic book which covers stories of Maqam in an inclusive way with a specific focus female Maqam practitioners who are less visible in the Maqam scene. 

Mosul’s Witness: retrospective of Muḥammad Jawad Kaḍim’s photography: The first retrospective and indeed the first curated show of Jawad Kaḍim’s work, that features a selection of the photographer’s most iconic images of historic Mosul, from photos of ordinary Moslawi children playing to rare images of the city’s 1963 flood. The exhibition ran from 12 February to 31 March 2024 at the Street Gallery in the IAIS at the University of Exeter.  

Mosul. Photograph by Lana Kamaran

The Memory Collective Film Description:  

Maqam is an artisanal art form, with many Maqam reciters also being skilled weavers, jewellery makers, carpenters, and more. Ramiz Al-Rawwi, one of the few Maqam reciters left in the city, and a skilled jewellery maker himself, said, “There were Maqams recited during work. In Mosul, we have specific Maqams performed during various tasks. For example, the Nari Maqam is traditionally recited while weaving fabric on the Jummah. I mean, the wooden loom where threads are placed for weaving.” Sadly, many shops and livelihoods have permanently shut down post-war, resulting in the loss not only of these spaces but also their distinctive soundscapes. This film attempts to revive Maqam and reconstruct the memories and the sonic footprint of the city, extending beyond mere structures. It features music created by talented musicians from Mosul during two weeks of workshops mentored by Amir El-Saffar. We believe cultural preservation must accompany creation. As crafts are being made, so too is the music; the film itself is going into a process of creation that mirrors the ongoing rebuilding of the city, where the musicians put their vision on what rebuilding means to them in music. 

Explore the Mosul Maqam website in English, in Arabic and in Kurdish.

In recognition of our shared commitment to the preservation of cultural heritage in the region, DAME provided financial and technical assistance to the Mosul Maqam project as well as the Mosul’s Witness exhibition at IAIS.